The Reef Knot, the Sheet Bend, and the Bowline are the first knots that you will learn in Scouts in order to get your Tracker Badge.

The Clove Hitch is the base for several lashings such as Square Lashing, Sheer Lashing and Tripod Lashing.
The Timber Hitch is the base for Diagonal Lashing.

Square Lashing




Square lashing is used when lashing two spars together at or near right angles to one another.

Square lashing is started with a clove hitch under the leg (under where the cross piece is to be). Twist the short free end of the clove hitch around the main part of the rope and being lashing as in Fig i.

The rope goes on the outside of the previous turn around the cross piece and on the inside of the previous turn around the leg. Keep the rope taut. Three or four turns are necessary before you start frapping as in Fig ii.

Make two or three frapping turns between the spars and strain them tightly as in Fig iii.

Finish the lashing with a clove hitch around the end of a cross piece as shown in Fig iv.
→ Start with a clove, wrap it thrice, frap it twice and end with a clove.

Japanese Square Lashing

This is used as an alternative to the square lashing for light spars and staves. Take the middle of the lashing rope around a spar as in Fig 1. Using both ends together (rope doubled) lash three times as in ordinary square lashing as in Fig 2. Take one end across the diagonal and behind the crossed spar as in Fig 3. The other rope now doubles back in front of the vertical spar as in Fig 4. The ends are now going in opposite directions to make frappings as in Fig 5. Finish the lashing with a reef knot across a spar as in Fig 6.

Diagonal Lashing

A diagonal lashing is used to spring two spars together. This lashing is started with a timber hitch around the two spars at the point where they cross, so binding them together as in Fig i. Lash three times around the spars, following the lay of the timber hitch, making sure that the lashings lie beside one another as in Fig ii, not on top of one another. Lash three more times this time crosswise over the previous lashings and strain to tighten. Make two frappings between the two spars, around the lashings as in Fig iii. Strain the frappings tightly and finish the lashing with a clove hitch around any convenient spar as in Fig iv.

Filipino Diagonal Lashing

This is used as an alternative to the usual diagonal lashing for light spars and staves. Start with the middle of the rope and pass the ends through the loop as in Fig 1. Lash three times around both spars and then three more times at right angles as in Fig 2. Split the two ends of the rope and frap between the spars as in Fig 3. The two ends, now going in opposite directions, are pulled tight as in Fig 4. Finish off the lashing with a reef knot across one of the spars as in Fig 5.

Sheer Lashing

A sheer lashing is used when constructing sheer legs. Start with a clove hitch around one of the spars then lay the spars together and lash seven or eight times side by side. The lashings should be fairly loose to allow frapping to go in between the spars. Make at least two frappings and pull tight. Finish with a clove hitch on the opposite spar you started with. Another type of sheer lashing is used when you want to lash two spars together to make a longer spar. When lashing two spars together in this fashion, the ends of the spars must overlap one another by at least a third of their total length. Two sheer lashings are used this time, without any frappings, at each end of the overlapping spars. Start with a clove hitch around both spars, bind tightly with seven or eight lashings and finish with another clove hitch.

Tripod Lashing

Lay the spars out with the tip of one pointing in one direction and with the other two, at either side, pointing the opposite way. Continue as with sheer lashing.

Gyn Lashing

This is used as an alternative to the usual tripod lashing for light spars and staves. Start with the middle of the rope and pass the ends around the outside and then through the middle of the other two spars as in Fig 1 and 1a. Lash three times around the spars as in Fig 2. Split the two ends of the rope and frap between the spars as in Fig 3. The two ends, now going in opposite directions, are pulled tight and finish off the lashing with a reef knot across one of the spars as in Fig 4.

Hold Fasts

Ropes under strain must be anchored securely.

Usually formed from pickets; these should be 4 feet long and 3 inches in diameter, driven into the ground.
Log and picket holdfasts are for lighter soil.

Deadman Holdfast is a semi permanent anchorage or for stony and sandy soils. Log buried in ground at depth of not less than 3 feet.

Natural Holdfasts (trees, etc.) are obviously best. Protect with sacking, make round turn with separate rope, attach tackle by slipping hook of block through both loops.

Whipping

Whipping is used to prevent the ends of a rope from fraying. Lay whipping twine on rope to form a loop as in Fig A. Bind the twine around to trap loop as in Fig B. Continue with neat, tight bindings until the length of the whipping is equal 3 times the diameter of the rope as in Fig C. Working end of twine should then pass through the end loop as in Fig C. Pull hard on the other end of the twine so that the working end is drawn and trapped under the binding as in Fig D. Cut off loose ends, roll whipping under foot. Nylon and other man-made fibres should be sealed using flame to melt fibres together; can also be bound using Back splice or Sailmakers whipping.